Kansas' Subtle Beauty

 

Kansas is not in every tourists usual trail. It's topography is not attractive enough to the mainstream tourists. But when you look close enough, Kansas, has subtle and unexpected natural beauty too.

If you're into open, spacious and flat, sweeping prairie that stretches farther than your eyes can see, it could be for you. Drive across Kansas and you'll understand why Dorothy of The Wizard of Oz wanted to return home to Kansas. Let its abundant blue sky and wide open space take your breath away or as a cowboy would describe, "instead of taking your breath away, give you a chance to catch your breath."

 

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Photographs on the Road from Banaue to Sagada and Back

Sitting on a public utility vehicle for long periods of time is never fun. But when the scenery is as beautiful as the ones from Banaue to Sagada, time flies by fast. You will never notice that 3 hours has already passed.

Get a chance to see the sun shining over the Chico River or slowly rising over the Bay-yo Rice Terraces.

Observe how the clouds slowly kiss the mountains in the afternoon on your way back to Banaue.

There are three ways to get to Sagada. These are 1. the Banaue route (9 hours from Manila to Banaue, 2.45 hours from Banaue to Sagada), 2. the Baguio route (5-6 hours from Manila to Baguio, 6-7 hours from Baguio to Sagada), and 3. the Bontoc route (12 hours from Manila to Bontoc, 45 minutes to Sagada).

Apart from being the least strenous, the Banaue route,  will not only grace you with beautiful roadside scenery, it will also allow you to see the world-renowned Rice Terraces, more particularly the Hungduan and Batad Rice Terraces.

Florida Bus Line has regular trips from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 9 p.m. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily. You can get transportation from Banaue to Bontoc (Emmanuel Bus and Bonbon Bus) then onward to Sagada (jeepney) via public transportation or hire a private vehicle from Banaue direct to Sagada.

Sagada - where time stood still

It's like time stood still in Sagada. Perhaps the distance (about 400 km north of Manila) and lack of transportation during the Spanish Era has allowed this small town in the northern part of the Philippines to preserve its culture. And perhaps it is for this reason that some Igorots, a minority group, still practice the ancient funeral custom of burying their dead by either hanging them by the cliffs or by placing them outside cave openings, a practice that is not typical Filipino.

Hanging Coffins

Apart from practical reasons of preventing animals from desecrating their dead, Igorots believe that spirits could easilly travel to their destination when they are hung by the cliffs rather than being buried six feet under.

Lumiang Burial Cave

They also believe that the dead should leave this world the same way they entered in fetal position, hence, the size of the caskets. There are a lot of stories about the cave. One story relayed to tourists is that the cave is considered a sacred place and only the privileged can be buried there.

Although the traditional practice of burying the dead in the Lumiang Cave is waning - the last burial was in 1986, the ritual of hanging the coffins by the cliffs still continue to this day. A national treasure, it is a place everyone should visit and help preserve.

Getting there:

There are no direct bus trips to Sagada. There are three routes that visitors can choose from: the Banaue route (9 hours from Manila to Banaue, 2.45 hours from Banaue to Sagada), the Baguio route (6-8 hours from Manila to Baguio, 6-7 hours from Baguio to Sagada), and the Bontoc route (12 hours from Manila to Bontoc, 45 minutes to Sagada).

Florida Bus Line has regular trips from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 9 p.m. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily. Visitors can get transportation from Banaue to Bontoc then onward to Sagada via public transportation or hire a private vehicle from Banaue direct to Sagada.

Playground of the Gods: Bomod-ok Falls

Another popular destination in Sagada that local and foreign visitors flock is the Bomod-ok Falls. But unlike other tourist spot, you will have to endure a long trek before you can get a glimpse of the Big Falls' magnificence.

The Banga-an trail may be the easiest for its paved trail, but let it be known that the steep ascent on your way back is not your usual walk in the park. Be sure you have enough strength for the hike back.

Do not be disheartened by the 40-50 minute hike. Afterall, you will not only be awarded with a view of the majestic falls at the end of the trail, but also breathtaking views of the Aguid Rice Terraces along the way.

Half-way in the trail is a village called Fidelisan where you need to pay a minimal fee of Php 10 per person for the maintainance of the paved trail. This is also the last village that has provisions like bottled water for sale.

The people of Mt. Province are friendly. Do not be shy and say hello when you meet them along the way.

When swimming in the pool below the falls be careful as the water is very cold and the sudden drop might catch you by surprise. Do not stray far from the edge and look before you step.

It is not uncommon to rain in the afternoon. Do not miss the mist over the terraces. It is an enchanting scene.

Getting there:

There are no direct bus trips to Sagada. There are three routes that visitors can choose from: the Banaue route (9 hours from Manila to Banaue, 2.45 hours from Banaue to Sagada), the Baguio route (6-8 hours from Manila to Baguio, 6-7 hours from Baguio to Sagada), and the Bontoc route (12 hours from Manila to Bontoc, 45 minutes to Sagada).

Florida Bus Line has regular trips from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 9 p.m. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily. Visitors can get transportation from Banaue to Bontoc then onward to Sagada via public transportation or hire a private vehicle from Banaue direct to Sagada.

Rates:
Tour Guide – Php 600/group of 10 pax or less
Visitor fee at Fidelisan - Php 10/pax

Must Haves ...
Guide (you can find them at the Sagada Visitor Center)
Comfortable and light clothing
Durable shoes/slippers (it's a long walk)
Cap/Sarong
Sunglasses
Sunblock
Plastic bag/Ziploc (for your valuables, in case it rains)
Bottled Water

Nice to Have ...
Change of clothes (you may want to change [no dressing rooms] or just let your clothes air dry on your back)
Walking stick (for those not good with balance)

Six Feet (and more) Under - Spelunking at Sumaging Cave

Six feet not thrilling enough? Try 535 feet or 163 meters down a cold, slippery, and dark cave. Sumaging Cave in Sagada is the ultimate adventure destination in terms of spelunking. It is one of the deepest in terms of vertical range and the fifth longest cave in terms of length in the Philippines. It has trails for neophytes and veteran spelunkers alike.

Be prepared to use every muscle in your body. You will need all limbs free as you descend the almost 90-degree dark cliff. At some point there will be a short rapelling involved.

Halfway into the cave, you will have to make your way on slippery rocks, but the rest of the way the rocks turn to sand paper-like texture that will actually hug your feet and prevent slip. Guides will require you to take your slippers off. Look before you step.

Guano will be all over the place. Expect them on your hands and clothes. Washrooms are available at a store outside the cave (Php 20/wash).  The whole experience will last for approximately 2 hours, while the "cave connection" from Lumiang Cave to Sumaging Cave for 4-5 hours.

Must Haves..Adveturous Spirit (not for the weak heart and spirit, but definitely open for neophyte and non-spelunkers)
Guide (you can find them at the Sagada Visitor Center)
Change of clothes
Plastic bags/Ziplocs/small backpack (for your valuables)
Small Camera (okay to bring DSLR cameras in Sumaging Cave [only] but will be at your own risk of getting wet or damaged in case you slip, while dangerous to bring to the "Cave Connection" as the water is waist-deep from Lumiang Cave to Sumaging)
Bottled Water

Nice to Have..
Headlamp (guides will be lighting your way with kerosene lamps)
Gloves (to avoid touching on bat guano)
Leggings (to prevent scratches)

Stairways to Heaven: Hungduan Rice Terraces

Some are put off by the thought of the long bus ride (9 hours from Manila to Banaue, 1.5hours from Banaue to Hungduan) and the tiring walk (approx. 2 hours from Hungduan poblacion to the hot spring), but those who have been there swear that all the sweat was all worth it. Afterall, the terraces look like stairways to heaven and the fog (especially in the afternoon) almost make it a walk in the clouds experience.

What makes it special is that the terraces were carved by hand and with little to no machinery into the mountains 2000 years ago. Water irrigation is not a problem in this mountains as water run from an ancient irrigation system from the rainforests above the terraces.

For the safety of visitors, the local government recommend taking a guide before starting the hike. Expect an alternating flat and steep hike over cemented but often narrow path. Remember to fully stop when appreciating the magnificent views. It's a long way down, mind you.

 

Along the way, evidence of Ifugao life greet visitors. People hard at work, family travelling, and even death. They bury their dead in their backyards.

At the end of the trail is a hot spring to soothe those weary feet.

The tarraces do not stop. On the way back, the expanse of the terrace is more evident.

Hungduan Rice Terraces is inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List as a cultural Landscape. Right so, as it is magnificent and just breathtaking - literally and figuratively. What are you waiting for, the mountains are calling you.

Getting There:

Florida Bus Line has regular trips from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 9 p.m. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily. You can get transportation to Hungduan from Banaue.

Contacts:

Accommodation in Banaue

Banaue View Inn (Php 900/night), read review here.
Barangay Poblacion, Banaue
• Lily Luglu
• (361) 161

Jeepney for hire

Manong Peter Ramos
• (63920) 2787558

Guide

Javes Beyer
• (63926) 2320243