Sagada - where time stood still

It's like time stood still in Sagada. Perhaps the distance (about 400 km north of Manila) and lack of transportation during the Spanish Era has allowed this small town in the northern part of the Philippines to preserve its culture. And perhaps it is for this reason that some Igorots, a minority group, still practice the ancient funeral custom of burying their dead by either hanging them by the cliffs or by placing them outside cave openings, a practice that is not typical Filipino.

Hanging Coffins

Apart from practical reasons of preventing animals from desecrating their dead, Igorots believe that spirits could easilly travel to their destination when they are hung by the cliffs rather than being buried six feet under.

Lumiang Burial Cave

They also believe that the dead should leave this world the same way they entered in fetal position, hence, the size of the caskets. There are a lot of stories about the cave. One story relayed to tourists is that the cave is considered a sacred place and only the privileged can be buried there.

Although the traditional practice of burying the dead in the Lumiang Cave is waning - the last burial was in 1986, the ritual of hanging the coffins by the cliffs still continue to this day. A national treasure, it is a place everyone should visit and help preserve.

Getting there:

There are no direct bus trips to Sagada. There are three routes that visitors can choose from: the Banaue route (9 hours from Manila to Banaue, 2.45 hours from Banaue to Sagada), the Baguio route (6-8 hours from Manila to Baguio, 6-7 hours from Baguio to Sagada), and the Bontoc route (12 hours from Manila to Bontoc, 45 minutes to Sagada).

Florida Bus Line has regular trips from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 9 p.m. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily. Visitors can get transportation from Banaue to Bontoc then onward to Sagada via public transportation or hire a private vehicle from Banaue direct to Sagada.

Playground of the Gods: Bomod-ok Falls

Another popular destination in Sagada that local and foreign visitors flock is the Bomod-ok Falls. But unlike other tourist spot, you will have to endure a long trek before you can get a glimpse of the Big Falls' magnificence.

The Banga-an trail may be the easiest for its paved trail, but let it be known that the steep ascent on your way back is not your usual walk in the park. Be sure you have enough strength for the hike back.

Do not be disheartened by the 40-50 minute hike. Afterall, you will not only be awarded with a view of the majestic falls at the end of the trail, but also breathtaking views of the Aguid Rice Terraces along the way.

Half-way in the trail is a village called Fidelisan where you need to pay a minimal fee of Php 10 per person for the maintainance of the paved trail. This is also the last village that has provisions like bottled water for sale.

The people of Mt. Province are friendly. Do not be shy and say hello when you meet them along the way.

When swimming in the pool below the falls be careful as the water is very cold and the sudden drop might catch you by surprise. Do not stray far from the edge and look before you step.

It is not uncommon to rain in the afternoon. Do not miss the mist over the terraces. It is an enchanting scene.

Getting there:

There are no direct bus trips to Sagada. There are three routes that visitors can choose from: the Banaue route (9 hours from Manila to Banaue, 2.45 hours from Banaue to Sagada), the Baguio route (6-8 hours from Manila to Baguio, 6-7 hours from Baguio to Sagada), and the Bontoc route (12 hours from Manila to Bontoc, 45 minutes to Sagada).

Florida Bus Line has regular trips from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 9 p.m. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily. Visitors can get transportation from Banaue to Bontoc then onward to Sagada via public transportation or hire a private vehicle from Banaue direct to Sagada.

Rates:
Tour Guide – Php 600/group of 10 pax or less
Visitor fee at Fidelisan - Php 10/pax

Must Haves ...
Guide (you can find them at the Sagada Visitor Center)
Comfortable and light clothing
Durable shoes/slippers (it's a long walk)
Cap/Sarong
Sunglasses
Sunblock
Plastic bag/Ziploc (for your valuables, in case it rains)
Bottled Water

Nice to Have ...
Change of clothes (you may want to change [no dressing rooms] or just let your clothes air dry on your back)
Walking stick (for those not good with balance)

Six Feet (and more) Under - Spelunking at Sumaging Cave

Six feet not thrilling enough? Try 535 feet or 163 meters down a cold, slippery, and dark cave. Sumaging Cave in Sagada is the ultimate adventure destination in terms of spelunking. It is one of the deepest in terms of vertical range and the fifth longest cave in terms of length in the Philippines. It has trails for neophytes and veteran spelunkers alike.

Be prepared to use every muscle in your body. You will need all limbs free as you descend the almost 90-degree dark cliff. At some point there will be a short rapelling involved.

Halfway into the cave, you will have to make your way on slippery rocks, but the rest of the way the rocks turn to sand paper-like texture that will actually hug your feet and prevent slip. Guides will require you to take your slippers off. Look before you step.

Guano will be all over the place. Expect them on your hands and clothes. Washrooms are available at a store outside the cave (Php 20/wash).  The whole experience will last for approximately 2 hours, while the "cave connection" from Lumiang Cave to Sumaging Cave for 4-5 hours.

Must Haves..Adveturous Spirit (not for the weak heart and spirit, but definitely open for neophyte and non-spelunkers)
Guide (you can find them at the Sagada Visitor Center)
Change of clothes
Plastic bags/Ziplocs/small backpack (for your valuables)
Small Camera (okay to bring DSLR cameras in Sumaging Cave [only] but will be at your own risk of getting wet or damaged in case you slip, while dangerous to bring to the "Cave Connection" as the water is waist-deep from Lumiang Cave to Sumaging)
Bottled Water

Nice to Have..
Headlamp (guides will be lighting your way with kerosene lamps)
Gloves (to avoid touching on bat guano)
Leggings (to prevent scratches)

Stairways to Heaven: Hungduan Rice Terraces

Some are put off by the thought of the long bus ride (9 hours from Manila to Banaue, 1.5hours from Banaue to Hungduan) and the tiring walk (approx. 2 hours from Hungduan poblacion to the hot spring), but those who have been there swear that all the sweat was all worth it. Afterall, the terraces look like stairways to heaven and the fog (especially in the afternoon) almost make it a walk in the clouds experience.

What makes it special is that the terraces were carved by hand and with little to no machinery into the mountains 2000 years ago. Water irrigation is not a problem in this mountains as water run from an ancient irrigation system from the rainforests above the terraces.

For the safety of visitors, the local government recommend taking a guide before starting the hike. Expect an alternating flat and steep hike over cemented but often narrow path. Remember to fully stop when appreciating the magnificent views. It's a long way down, mind you.

 

Along the way, evidence of Ifugao life greet visitors. People hard at work, family travelling, and even death. They bury their dead in their backyards.

At the end of the trail is a hot spring to soothe those weary feet.

The tarraces do not stop. On the way back, the expanse of the terrace is more evident.

Hungduan Rice Terraces is inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List as a cultural Landscape. Right so, as it is magnificent and just breathtaking - literally and figuratively. What are you waiting for, the mountains are calling you.

Getting There:

Florida Bus Line has regular trips from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 9 p.m. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily. You can get transportation to Hungduan from Banaue.

Contacts:

Accommodation in Banaue

Banaue View Inn (Php 900/night), read review here.
Barangay Poblacion, Banaue
• Lily Luglu
• (361) 161

Jeepney for hire

Manong Peter Ramos
• (63920) 2787558

Guide

Javes Beyer
• (63926) 2320243

Banaue Accommodation: Banaue View Inn

Banaue View Inn certainly lives up to its name. Located right above the main road, it offers a great view of the small town of Banaue as well as the famed rice terraces. You can even see a waterfall in the distance. Nevermind the steep pathway leading towards the inn. Afterall, waking up with the rice terraces as your view is priceless.

Breakfast (Php 150) may be served at the dining area (with a view of the terraces) or packed for when you start early with your tours. The marketplace and local eateries are just a short walk away if you want options in your diet. Internet shops are also closeby if you need to stay in touch with your social network friends.

 

They have simple and basic but clean accommodation. Perfect for the no frills kind.

Room Rates:

Fan Room - Php 900/night (good for 2 persons)
check out is at 12nn, extension - Php 200

 VERDICT:

Good: great view. en suite bathroom. affordable. clean. screened windows. shower has hot water.
Bad: steep pathway may not be for those with bad knees. only serve breakfast. small and very low mirror (you have to sit on the chair or stoop really low).

Banaue View Inn
Brgy. Poblacion, Banaue
• Lily Luglu
• (361)161

Expenses for Banaue & Sagada Trip (2011)

			Individual Expense	Group of 2/9
	Day 1
		fx to bus terminal	20
		H20	25
		bfast	150
		environmental fee (Banaue)	20
		environmental fee (Hapao)	10
		rt transfer going to hapao	278	2500/9
		guide fee (Hapao)	78	700/9
		souvenir	150
		lunch	157
		dinner	35
		TOTAL	923
	Day 2
		bfast	150
		environmental fee (Sagada)	20
		rt transfer going to Sagada and Bomod-ok	634	5700/9
		guide fee (Sumaguing Cave)	112	1000/9
		guide fee (Bomod-ok Falls)	67	600/9
		lunch	45
		dinner	30
		H20	30
		TOTAL	1088
	Day 3
		bfast	150
		entrance fee (Batad view point)	20
		rt transfer going to batad	278	2500/9
		walking stick rental fee	10
		accommodation on twin sharing (3nights)	1200	2400/2
		room extension	100	200/2
		lunch	25
		taxi to home	115
		TOTAL	1898
		RT Busfare (Manila-Banaue-Manila)	1000
		TOTAL (without busfare)	3909
		TOTAL EXPENSE (in PhP)	4909

Suggested Itinerary for Banaue & Sagada

 

Day 1

PM
9pm - bus trip to Banaue

 

 

Day 2 (Hapao, Banaue)

AM
6am - arrive at Banaue
615am - buy bus tickets for return trip to Manila
640am - check-in at inn
715am - bfast
815am - off to Hungduan
845am - drop by Native Village Inn & Restaurant to order lunch
940am - register at Hungduan Registration Office
10am - arrive at Hapao Rice Terraces view deck & start of trek towards hot spring
12nn - arrive at Hapao hot spring

PM
1pm - start of trek back
2pm - end of trekking
235pm - lunch at Native Village Inn & Restaurant
330pm - Hiwang Native House Inn
420pm - Banaue Rice Terraces view deck
425pm - souvenir/pasalubong shopping
530pm – dinner

 

 

Day 3 (Sagada)

AM
530am - off to Sagada
6am - stop by the vegetable market along the highway
650am - bfast at Bay-yo Rice Terraces view deck
7am - continue with road trip
8am - arrive Sagada
830am - register at Sagada Tourists Info Center
9am - Sumaguing Cave
11am - Ancient Burial Cave
1135am - view Hanging Coffins from the highway
1155am – lunch

PM
1245pm - start trek towards Bomod-ok Falls
155pm - arrive at Bomod-ok Falls, swim
245pm - start of trek back
4pm - end of trekking
5pm - road trip back to Banaue
9-10pm - arrive at Banaue

 

 

Day 4 (Batad, Banaue)

AM
6am - off to Batad
715am - Hanging House view deck
740am - arrive at the saddle
810am - bfast
840am - start of trek
1005am - arrive at Batad Rice Terraces view deck
1041am - lunch

PM
1pm - start of road trip back to Banaue
3pm - wash up at the inn
530pm - off to bus terminal
6pm - start of trip back to Manila

 

 

Day 5

AM
3am - arrive at Sampaloc bus terminal