Heaven on Earth fittingly describes Batanes. Not known to many but it is the number one travel destination to seasoned Philippine travellers.
Visitors will literally forget that they are in the Philippines even before their plane lands.
Their culture is different. They bury their dead surprisingly like the Vikings. The people speak a different language. Their houses look different. If you are a Lord of the Rings follower, you will love the place. The weather is different. If you are anal with following a schedule, this is not the place for you. There, the weather rules. It is not typically tropical. It is the only place in the country that experiences four seasons. It is closer to Taiwan than Manila. It's topography is likened to Scotland, Ireland and New Zealand due to its windswept hills and boulder-hemmed shores. You will forget your sanity and start singing "The Hills are alive... " like a crazy person.
Getting there:
Seair (
http://flyseair.com/) flies twice daily to Basco, Batanes. To minimize on cost (one way costs Php 7,039.20) watch out for promos that Seair regularly gives away -- Feb and Sept, for half the price during the Philippine Travel Tour Expo and the Philippine Travel Mart, and for various discounts year-round online.
Topography:
The hills come alive in Batanes. The terrain is picturesque at every turn. No explanation needed for it is heaven on earth.
Architecture:
If unique architecture is what interests you, then there is Sabtang Island. It has most of the traditional houses intact and in perfect condition. As they say, it is a place that exists in another time. Ivatan houses are made of lime and stone. This to withstand the strongest typhoon. The walls are meter-thicked, while the roofs are foot-thicked made of cogon. To get to Sabtang, take an Ivana-bound jeepney/van from Basco (first trip is at 530am for Php30/35) and get off at Ivana Port. There are three fallowas that service the Ivana and Sabtang Port (first trip from Ivana is at 6-630am and the last trip from Sabtang is at 1pm). Make sure to inform the boat captain if you intend to have him wait for you.
Historic:
History buffs will not be disappointed because there are four 200-year old churches worth visiting: Santo Domingo in Basco, San Jose in Ivana, San Carlos in Mahatao and San Vicente on Sabtang. Chavayan church in Sabtang is the only one left of its kind - thick cogon-thatched roof. The village of Chavayan itself is a UNESCO World Heritage nominated site for its preserved traditional set up.
Archaeological Attraction:
When there is good weather, rejoice! Head to Ivuhos Island and create your own adventure à la Indiana Jones. In Ivuhos Island, you will find boat-shaped burial markers. The burial sites are marked with stones which are laid down to the shape of the local boat "tataya," with a pit carved in the middle from limestone bedrock. It is said that only Vikings are known to have made boat-shaped burial markers.
Weather:
However strong the materials used, there, the weather is king. A testament to this is the village that was wiped out by a great tidal wave back in the day. It is now called "The Sung Sung Ruins" or ghost town by some. Though it is said that the best time to go to Batanes is during the summer months, it is to be borne in mind, that the season has nothing to do with it when bad luck comes your way because the weather rules in this part of the country. We visited on October but were graced with sunny weather the whole time. Nevertheless, be prepared to have your schedule derailed.
Beaches:
Batanes Islands is situated between the Balintang Channel and the Bashi Channel, where South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean merge. It is no surprise that its shores are so ruggedly beautiful. On the way to the northern part of Batan Island, you will encounter beautiful boulder-hemmed shoures by the road side. Nakabuang Beach in Sabtang Island, meanwhile, is an example of how the ocean is wild in this part of the country. An arch was naturally formed by the rough waves of the sea.
Transportation:
There are a few public vehicles plying its streets. In fact, only at the airport will you find a line of tricycles waiting for passengers. Because the province is so small, the locals ride their own bicycles to get to one place to another. However if you plan on touring the island, there are a number of jeepneys and/or vans for hire. Also, most resorts have motorcycles for rent. While for the budget conscious, tricycles are available for charter at a minimal fee (Php 150/hour in Basco & Php 900/half day in Sabtang). To get from one island to another, Ivatans use the "falowa." Its round bottom makes the journey smoother despite the big waves in Batanes.
Accommodation:
Finding a place to stay is not hard, but be sure to book ahead during peak season (summer months). There are a number of resorts and lodging houses scattered around the town of Basco. Fundacion Pacita is one such place with amazing views of the Pacific Ocean. It was the home of internationally acclaimed artist Pacita Abad. The government-run
Ivatan Lodge, meanwhile, is the favorite of backpackers. For just Php 200/night, it is sufficient for the no frills kind. Clean and Safe.
Food:
Although a favorite destination of some of the most high-profile individuals of the country, surprisingly, Batanes has few restaurants. Canteens and cafeterias nevertheless have mushroomed everywhere. Backpackers usually head to the SDC Canteen run by the Dominican Sisters, where a meal costs for about Php 50. For your last night, you may want to splurge and try Casa Napoli's home-made pizza (Php 300).
People:
If that has not convinced you still, maybe the people will. Though naturally shy, they will not hesitate to help visitors. If safety is a concern, worry no more because the province has zero to none crime rate.
A place that exists in another time. Dream it or Live it. Your choice.
Basco Contacts:
♦
Accommodation
◊ Ivatan Lodge (Php 200/pax)
Elisa A. Castillo - 0930-8511884
♦
tricycle charter (Php 150/hour)
◊ Glenn - 0919-9854506
Sabtang Contacts:
♦
Accommodation
◊ Chavayan Homestay (Php100/pax)
Harold Gabotero or Alejandro Havana
◊ Heritage House (Php 150/folding bed; Php 600/room, good for 2pax)
Glo - 0908-3997873
♦
tricycle charter (Php 950/half day)
◊ Edwin Hubalde - 0918-3694083
♦
van charter (Php 1500)
◊ Rudy Grecha - 0908-5607833
♦
tour guide (Php 500)
◊ Emilio Fedel (BCTA) - 0921-5201265
◊ Rudy Grecha - 0908-5607833
*** Click
here for our itinerary and
here for an accounting of our expenses.
